Rei Kawakubo sticks her finger in the wind and nails the moment, demonstrating the enduring outsider status of camp. Joffe added that Kawakubo wanted a theatre as the venue for her new show. Curtains, too. Inside, there was more red velvet, with two huge theatrical klieg lights suspended above the catwalk. So that was before the show. Deliriously so.
What happened in between was one of those intermittently prescient situations where Rei Kawakubo sticks her finger in the wind and nails the moment.
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So her collection was exactly the joyous celebration of artificiality that Sontag wrote of. Emotional, big, in other words. And the bigness carried over into the clothes: massed petticoats, polka-dotted lumps and bumps, rolls of fabric making huge rosettes, a glittering red showgirl outfit dissected and mounted like a trophy on a red tulle foundation, a big fairytale STAR, and a huge mille-feuille of fabric which brought to mind the fairytale of the princess and the pea.
Articulated pieces moved like tectonic plates as the models walked. Theatrical sumptuousness prevailed. At the end of the show, the models held hands as they lined up along the stage, like a cast taking a bow while the audience clapped themselves senseless.
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That reaction vindicated Kawakubo in her conviction that Sontag was right about camp. If, as Rei believes, the original rebel yell of punk has lost its guts, camp prevails with its enduring outsider status. There is no doubt that a spirit of aesthetic excess seems like an inspirational response to the dark, goatish machinations of male power-mongers. You could recap the Carven show in its soundtrack. At Carven, Serge Ruffieux, who came from the hallowed haute couture halls of Christian Dior, is posed with the challenge of bringing those values to a mid-market customer.
In his sophomore collection, much like that soundtrack, he created a silhouette that borrowed from artisanal codes but constructed it in humble materials. It was expressed most palpably in garments hybridising two familiar pieces, like a jacket half quilted and half plaid, structured to kick out at the back in a couture-like gesture.
Or how about a mid-market tweed suit so sculpted it looked like it had been statuesquely cast on the body? Beautifully made fashion is no longer the privilege of the few, and in his interpretation of an accessible and attainable brand like Carven, Ruffieux captures that mentality pretty effortlessly.
Francesco Risso loved the notion of building a collection the same way: clues, codes, signs, a solution. And, like Sherlock, he also described the process as elementary. On the other, there was the effort to impose order on chaos, like a kid making sense of the world. We sat on tightly wrapped bales of bedding and clothes.
Recycling, connecting with the natural world…he liked that idea too. His models wore peacock feathers trailing dramatically from their ears. It was the second time this week that Victor Frankenstein — the literary inspiration for anyone engaged in the act of roughly stitching new life together — reared his head.
Alessandro Michele is engaged on a similar project at Gucci. The essence of the collection was that half-and-half: a coat that was half green python, half black leather, another that was industrial felting and hot pink wool. There were schizophrenic dresses that felt sophisticated on this side, turned inside out to lining on that. Weird and wonderful. We rocked back on our heels and thought about that for a moment.
Not so sweet
Fortunately, there were shownotes to clarify. Being one and safety in numbers.
MILAN, Italy — Running themes throughout this season have been protection and safety, logical responses to the climate of crisis that is wracking the present. But, in their second show for Jil Sander, Lucie and Luke Meier projected those ideas into the future, to a life beyond all this chaos. Luke admitted to a nostalgia for that future.
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So maybe the serene beauty of the collection could be construed as quiet optimism. The models were cocooned in monochrome, white, black, grey, but also head-to-toe cerulean, tomato and celadon. Some of them carried baby duvets. Snow Blowers. Construction Equip Parts.
Metalworking Equipment Parts. Tractor Parts. Heavy Equipment.
- Angels Among Us.
- Cooking Classics: Korea.
- The Seagull;
Air Pressure Gauges. Compressed Air Treatment. Hydraulic Fluid. Hydraulic Fluid Reservoirs.
Hydraulic Motors. Rupture Discs. Air Compressors. Air Tools. Compactors - Walk-Behind. Concrete Vibrators. Drywall Tools. Grinders - Professional. Hand Tools. Heat Guns. Heaters - Jobsite. Add Crochet armwarmer, fingerless gloves to favorites. Add The Ribbed Marguerite Set to favorites. Add Fiona Mitts to favorites. Add Bohemian Flower Warmers to favorites. Add Chunky Wrist Warmer to favorites. Add Crochet Mobius and Mittens "Honeycombe" to favorites. Add Fingerless Mitt Gloves to favorites. Add Honey Bear Hat Set to favorites. Mid-calf boots.
Men's fashion. Men's jackets.
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